The BMC have recently released a great article about ‘campus board’ training. If you have been to an indoor wall you may well have seen one of these lovely pieces of equipment. Probably the simplest of all climbing features to install, they consist simply of a piece of 18mm plywood, about 2m x 4m, starting about head height and slightly overhanging. Onto this are fixed horizontal pieces of wood, of varying depths.
The idea is that you get strong, using a variety of exercises from basic pull-ups, ‘deadhangs’ and other ‘campusing’ routines. But, as this article by two well qualified sports physiologists points out, these training devices have been made by high performing male climbers. Audry Morrison BSc, RNutr, UIAA Medcom, and Dr. Volker Schöffl, MHBA, IFSC Medcom, UIAA Medcom argue that because of the significant differences between womens’ and mens’ and childrens’ physiologies, there is no ‘one size fits all’ for rock climbing training.
Well worth reading if you’re getting into climbing, progressing or if you’re involved coaching or instructing people – particularly under 18′s.
Read it here.